Friday 1 December 2017

Schellenberg Hotel, Dusseldorf, Germany – review written 16 November 2015


My first experience of the Schellenberg hotel in Dusseldorf was as a dinner guest of a colleague in October 2013. I distinctly remember what looks like an unassuming establishment from the outside turning into a very pleasant experience inside: one of those moments when I wished I’d booked a room myself.

The Schellenberg is a low, squat, almost boring building lounging on the banks of the Rhine. Its restaurant (which doubles as the breakfast room) offers wonderful views of the river except during the winter when all you will see over dinner is yourself reflected in the large picture windows.

If you have business in Dusseldorf’s ‘Messe’ or, indeed, its convention centre, the Schellenberg is the place to be because it’s across the road and will take you all of five minutes to reach your destination. An added bonus is its close proximity to the airport – or flughafen, as they say in Germany. In short, it’s very convenient.

Check-in was quick and straightforward and I was directed to my room, which, rather disappointingly, was outside.

Whenever the word ‘outside’ is mentioned in a hotel context my heart drops. I've just come from 'outside' I don't want to go back out there! Show me to the elevator, tell me the number of the floor. "That's room 608 on the sixth floor, sir." But oh no! My room was 'outside'. “Follow the white wall and turn right and then walk down the stairs”. It was like something out of No Country for Old Men or My Name is Earl.

The room (room 27), however, was fine, although I hate – with a vengeance – rooms on the ground floor that open out onto the 'street' so to speak, as I never planned on staying in a ‘motel’. The room opened out into the fresh air, the outside world, not a hotel corridor, and I don't particularly like that because it means that people can, if they so wish, linger outside my hotel room in the early hours and, if the curtains aren't drawn, even peer in and watch me sleeping – and I don't want that.

There are paper-thin blinds that are see-through, meaning that if you're outside loitering with intent – and the curtains are not drawn – it is possible to look in at the person in the room. .

But outside of that problem it's not too bad. I felt mildly inconvenienced when the hotel receptionist didn't give me the WiFi details before packing me off 'outside' to seek out my room (I had to go back 'outside' to ask for the code) but other than that it's very nice.

Roomy – now there's a good word – a decent bathroom with a walk-in (as opposed to a step-in) shower, a sink with a proper plug, everything works.

There’s a mini bar, a decent-sized wardrobe, flatscreen TV and so on; nothing to complain about.

There were 52 television channels, but only CCTV News was in English. CCTV News is some kind of Africa-centric channel, a kind of African CNN or BBC World. 

Dinner was wonderful – prawns to start (a little tasteless) followed by cod with polenta and a raspberry mousse dessert. Throw in a glass or two of Malbec and a large bottle of mineral water and I was at peace with the world.

At breakfast I was able to take full advantage of the Schellenberg's riverside location. I sat there, having collected everything I thought I'd need – cereal, fresh fruit, a pastry, scrambled egg and a pot of tea – and watched these huge barges pass by; they were passenger barges, designed for river cruises, and they were very long. Some had rooms so I'm guessing there are overnight river cruises along the Rhine; now that's something I'd like to do.

Viking River Cruises was one of the operators and there was another barge moored up on the bank below the hotel. At first I thought it was part of the hotel: extra rooms, perhaps; but soon its engines started to churn up the water and it disappeared up river.

On the opposite bank there were what looked like gently sloping 'sandy' banks that were almost beach-like in appearance. It was probably mud, not sand, but it didn't look very muddy and I'm guessing that in the summer people might enjoy lying there, taking in some rays, but it was mid-November and the 'beaches' were deserted.

Breakfast was pleasant enough and so was dinner. The entire bill was just 189 Euros and I later returned for an excellent lunch of soup followed by salmon and another couple of glasses of Malbec. Perfect! And yes, I would return.

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